Posts Tagged ‘greek people’

Interesting business

Sunday, November 1st, 2009

I wonder what a UK trained accountant would make of the Greek way of doing business. Especially one who was auditing the accounts of our local post office.

The man who runs the post office doesn’t seem to like giving change and tries to avoid it whenever he can. On a recent visit I wanted to buy 2 stamps costing €1.40 in total, and offered a €5 note. He asked if I had change, which I didn’t. So rather than give me €3.60 change he gave me the stamps for free. And this isn’t the first time it’s happened, nor are we the only ones it happens to. Occasionally he will tell me to pay next time, but not always.

This is a post office, it’s supposed to have money – and it does. People pay all sorts of bills here, and obviously buy stamps and pay for other postage. This man has a till full of change. There’s no excuse for his actions. I didn’t give him a €50 note; I offered just a small amount of money over the cost of my purchase. If I’d offered a €2 coin he would have given me change: he can manage to part with a few cents but not his euros.

I’m assuming someone, somewhere expects our post office to produce accounts, which are surely supposed to balance. How can this happen if our postmaster keeps giving away stamps for free?

When we bought our land there were various payments included in the costs. The lady in the local notary’s office who produced the paperwork, for example, was given something like €50. I’m sure she gets paid as an employee, but if she picks up this type of ‘tip’ for every case she works on she probably makes a fair amount on top of her salary.

And of course there were the ‘usual’ payments to people in the official departments, to make sure the paperwork was moving along speedily.

A friend was telling me the other day that some tavernas only produce paper receipts when they know there’s a tax inspector in the area. At other times it’s all verbal so there’s no way of knowing whether all the money received from customers went into the till.

Years ago Ken ran a carpet and upholstery cleaning business in the UK, and some of his customers paid in cash. The tax inspectors went through his books carefully to make sure he accounted for every penny he received, checking payments against his appointments. If they thought he wasn’t declaring all his cash receipts they could estimate them, based on those he had declared, and charge tax on the notional amount. And, other than asking people not to pay in cash, there was no way he could prove that he had accounted for all the cash he received.

There’s a lot of publicity about corruption in high places at present: UK politicians’ expense claims, free holidays for businessmen and so on. Here in Greece corruption at the highest levels of government and business also gets noticed. But this is a country that still has many practices that encourage people to under declare their income, personal or business. It seems that as long as things are kept at a reasonable level, and no-one gets too greedy, this will continue to be accepted.

If even part of that unpaid tax was recovered maybe there would be more progress on projects that are urgently needed, such as a local hospital or a completed motorway, or more firefighting resources. But this is probably naive of me, given the stories I’ve also heard about public money being spent on the pet projects of local politicians rather than the things that are most needed.

And even the greedy are catered for:

I’ve heard of a developer who was taken to court for taking a client’s money but failing to deliver the services agreed. A guilty verdict resulted in a prison sentence, and I believe the guilty party actually went to prison – but not for long. He was able to return the client’s money and get out of prison after just a few weeks, presumably pay a fine?

Not much incentive there to keep to the straight and narrow then?

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So where’s the hurry?

Wednesday, October 28th, 2009
Somewhere to sit while waiting for 'methavrio' to arrive

Somewhere to sit while waiting for 'methavrio' to arrive

This week, next week, whenever…

The Greek equivalent of mañana is methavrio which technically means the day after tomorrow, but in practice means some time in the future. We often encounter it. To put it bluntly, we just never know when something will actually happen: expectations and reality can be very far apart. Here’s an example.

When we first moved to this apartment last November, our landlady told us she was planning to get an internet connection in her office, which would give us the opportunity to ditch our current, relatively expensive, wireless and use her broadband. Great! We thought, but fortunately didn’t rush out and cancel that contract.

Over the following months the subject mostly went quiet, but every few weeks she would tell us that the broadband was coming – this week or next week usually being the timeframe. In July we got neighbours: a Dutch couple staying in the studio opposite for 2 months, who’d been trying to get internet access down in one of the local cafes, but without their own laptop it was difficult. Again I heard the statement ‘I will be getting broadband here next week’, and hoped their need wasn’t urgent.

Then two weeks ago we were told it was definitely ‘next’ (i.e. last) week. And about three days ago the much awaited broadband finally arrived.

I don’t think our landlady is entirely at fault for raising our expectations as she was in the hands of other people, who presumably kept giving her dates that they failed to keep. What I find interesting is the fact that it never seemed to bother her to keep telling us that broadband would be here ‘next week’. Faced with so many failed deliveries I would have been too embarrassed to even raise the subject until the thing was installed and performing.

Maybe here they’re so used to things not happening when planned that they’re comfortable with these non-appearances, but I know that if I’d made any plans based on the early promises I would have been very disappointed.

And that broadband for us? So far we can access it on one of our two machines – for some reason her network can only accommodate two machines and one of those is obviously the office one. We’re trying to pick up a wireless signal through concrete walls so it isn’t always that good, and our PC has a much more difficult time picking it up than our laptop. As we want both machines to have internet access at the same time (we’ve tried juggling one machine, it just doesn’t work for us) we don’t yet have an acceptable solution.

So we’re not abandoning our trusty wireless connection yet despite the shiny new box sitting in the office. The attraction of faster broadband is definitely there, but we know we won’t have access to this when we finally move so we’ll need our wireless connection long-term. But maybe adding up the costs of installing phone lines and getting a new broadband connection is a good idea as we could be here for some time yet…

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It’s Started…

Sunday, August 2nd, 2009

One night last week we sat and watched a hillside burn.

This sort of red sky at night doesn't delight anyone

This sort of red sky at night doesn't delight anyone

And the following morning …

Well actually, we sat and watched a hillside smoking in the morning, the fire on our side had finally been put out, but it was still blazing away on the other side of the hill.

Fortunately we were far enough away from this, the first local fire of the summer, to be able to watch without fear, and marvel at the power of fire and the challenges of trying to tame it, especially in darkness. Looking at our map, it’s possible the area affected was mostly hillside, but it’s also possible that the fire got close to some small villages.

Whether human life and property was affected or not, the devastation created by these fires can take years to disappear. We drive to Athens through patches of hillside still covered in burnt-out tree trunks from the big fires two years ago, the land still struggling to recover its greenery.

We haven’t yet heard how the fire was caused. It didn’t seem to start until late afternoon so it’s possible that it was natural. But sadly it’s equally possible that it could be arson, something that figured strongly in the fires of 2007. People with a desire to clear land of its natural plant life for their own use. And a selfishness in that desire that ignores the real danger of setting loose a force that is so difficult to control.

Plus a disregard for the costs – financial, emotional and human – of fighting these fires.

Fire engines, 2 helicopters and 2 planes for several hours doesn't come cheap.

Fire engines, 2 helicopters and 2 planes for several hours doesn't come cheap

A couple of weeks ago a young farmer died here. He was working in his olive groves when his tractor overturned, causing him injuries that didn’t need to be fatal. But this area has no local ambulance service and the local hospital is 50 km away along coastal roads. Not a quick drive in an emergency.

The length of time it takes for an ambulance to attend an emergency and get the injured person to hospital means that people die who might have lived. Understandably residents have protested to the authorities calling for better facilities locally. But money has to be available to fight forest fires, and there is only so much money.

The Greek government have announced extra money for firefighting services this year. Just as important, they are focussing more human resources to investigate possible arson in these events. Greek justice can be a mixed bag at times, but let’s hope that anyone stupid and greedy enough to create fear and damage by starting fires gets exactly what they deserve.

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Things We Love About Greece #6

Sunday, July 5th, 2009

Generosity

A couple of recent incidents make me return to this theme, which I’m sure will crop up fairly often, as a demonstration that there are still some places in the world where the old values haven’t completely disappeared.

Often, when we shop in the smaller local shops and markets, we get more than we bargained for – but in the nicest way:

The fruit seller, unable to offer us grapefruit this week, pushes a couple of large oranges into my hands.

The vegetable stall weighs my bag of potatoes, gives me the price, then slips a few more in, and maybe an extra onion.

At the bakers, seasonal treats like soft bread plaits are popped into the bag with our usual loaf.

Restaurants bring free plates of water melon or apple, pieces of honey-soaked cake, or sometimes a small glass of spirits to end your meal.

All these people know that giving a little extra is good for business.

But the one that really made me sit up was recounted by friends. They’d been on a drive out and stopped at the taverna in a small country village. Their meal – salad for two, bread, a jug of wine and several beers – came to an extremely reasonably 9 euros or so. After serving up some fruit the proprietor asked them to close their car windows.

A little curiously, this was done, and the proprietor turned on the hosepipe and washed down their car!

I know I can’t say it would only happen in Greece, but I’m fairly certain it wouldn’t happen in England.

sculpturalplant

Just a nice plant I saw on a recent beach visit

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Things we love about Greece #5

Sunday, June 21st, 2009

Traditional Shopping

If you’re a shop-a-holic or you like browsing around the famous shopping chains Greece definitely isn’t the place for you. The only place you’re likely to find clothing shops you’ve heard of elsewhere are the big cities such as Athens and Thessaloniki, and even then the chances are they will be far smaller outlets than you’re used to.

Even the well branded supermarket chain Carrefour is a shadow of the French outlets. In fact, the only shop that bears a close resemblance to outlets in other countries is the discount supermarket LIDL. But at the other end of the scale Greece really comes into its own.

There are many old-style shops that seem to sell literally everything you could ever need, and many things you never realised you needed, or had lost all hope of ever finding. Plus there are shops that you’ll either love or hate, where you can buy more different types of nails, rope and such like than you can imagine. And they are still sold in the old way: you measure out your rope then pay for it by weight; your accurately cut wood is then totally and charged by volume.

But what we really like is the plethora of traders who bring their goods to the villages.

I can still just about remember mobile grocery vans from my childhood, and and bakers vans were still a common site in England not that long ago, but most of these traders gave up eventually. Here in Greece, loudspeakers announcing the imminent arrival of all manner of traders are a regular, almost daily feature, both in small remote villages and the larger towns. And the range of goods on offer also contains some surprises.

Organic produce straight from local farmers’ fields compete with live poultry (get your baby chicks/turkeys here!) and fish caught that day. Garden plants including tall palms can be seen swaying above trucks as they meander through the narrow lanes. Carpets and rugs peep out from the back of transit vans and even clothes wave precariously on their hangars as a tight corner is negotiated.

Terracotta pots are packed densely and piled high, but our personal favourite has to be the chair man, his announcement always preceding him by several minutes: ‘I have chairs, I have tables, bamboo, wood, plastic … come and look’.

And he does: stacks of white plastic chairs jostle against cast iron and wood garden benches, bamboo chairs and tables balancing precariously in their midst. And all piled in the back of a small pick-up truck. I wonder how often he has to unload the whole thing to get at that particular chair that will go so well on the terrace?

Stop me and buy some: get your garden furniture here!

Stop me and buy some: get your garden furniture here!

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Gardening Update

Sunday, June 14th, 2009
Almost a foot long in less than a week - and still growing fast!

Almost a foot long in less than a week - and still growing fast!

We seem to have hit the period of endless hot, dry days faster this year than last. One day it was cool, the next it was like a wall of heat, and it hasn’t eased up much since. There does seem to be more wind though, sometimes with a cool edge but at others a hot, dusty breeze that feels like we’re sitting in the path of a hairdryer. A couple of nights ago a strong wind – reminiscent of winter – started in the evening and continued through the night. But with it came lower temperatures and I gladly slept with the windows open. It was beautifully cool, the breeze wafting the bed sheet like fingers gently massaging my back.

My intention had been to get up around 6am the following morning to water the vegetable garden before the heat of the day kicked in (it can be uncomfortably hot by 8am), but as it was still windy I decided to give it a miss. Better to water the ground slowly later, I thought, than get myself thoroughly soaked as the wind whipped the spray everywhere. So at 8am I was out there, working slowly among the plant with the hosepipe, doing my best to water the soil and not the plants themselves.

For some reason I was preoccupied when I finished the task, and I forgot to turn off the water at the main tap. Unfortunately I didn’t discover this until around 12 hours later, as I put my foot down and sank quickly into the muddy ground along the side of the plot. Oops!

Despite these mishaps, our gardening experiment continues with mixed results.

On the positive side every type of vegetable we’ve planted is growing, although we’ve lost a few individual plants here and there. The speed of growth is surprising, and we’re already faced with dilemmas like what to do with 5 large cucumbers, all ready at the same time. But that’s where non-growing friends come in. So far we’ve harvested our own lettuce, French beans, cucumber, courgettes, strawberries and tomatoes.

Courgettes are also coming along well

Courgettes are also coming along well

The heat is taking its toll, and lettuce and carrots are protesting by bolting. A day is a long time in a sunny garden, and we’re learning the hard way about the need for regular feeding, as the water quickly dilutes the impact of the feed. We need to rig up some sort of shade – olive netting over some bamboo poles should do the trick – to try and give the plants some respite in the afternoons, otherwise I think we could lose more to the sapping heat.

The only times of day when manual work is comfortable are early morning (preferred by me) and late evening (preferred by Ken). The ground is so hard – a combination of heavy soil and lack of moisture – it’s difficult to dig down more than a few inches, and gardening tools can easily get damaged. The weeds are, obviously, comfortable in this environment and grow so fast that we need regular weeding sessions among the vegetables to keep ahead of the game.

Container growing seems to be a good idea, giving us more control over watering, feeding and shading options. We already have carrots, strawberries and potatoes in containers, and may have a go with a few lettuce and tomatoes.

Potatoes seem happier in containers where we can almost see them growing

Potatoes seem happier in containers where we can almost see them growing

Although we haven’t had particular pest problems (a few holey leaves is all) we’re also trying some companion planting, putting basil and oregano in amongst the crops. Basil is also finding a use as insect repellent (pots by windows and doors) and to treat insect bites. The oregano was collected from where it grows wild in the hills, in the company of our landlord’s mother. She’s 70, but put me to shame as she climbed up and down the steep slopes like a mountain goat, gathering bags full of herbs, most of which she apparently gives away.

As if caring for our own patch during the few comfortable hours of the day wasn’t enough, I seem to have become unofficial gardener for the rest of the site where we live. We had already offered to water the flower beds each night, which made sense as we were already out there watering our own stuff, and another 15 minutes or so would make no difference.  But then in casual conversation I said I was tempted to weed an enclosed bed where the flowers were fighting for space, and suddenly I was being given requests (I’d like that one moved somewhere else please, and these things in tubs need to go somewhere – put them wherever you want) and presented with new plants to incorporate into the beds!

Actually I don’t mind at all. It’s a good way to get some exercise, which is a rare thing these days, plus it means we get to learn more quickly about which plants will grow best in this climate. Another bonus is the opportunity to take whatever cuttings we want, which means we can start to build up stock for our own garden now, and without the expense of buying plants.

And it’s another example in Greek trust: our landlady gave us the keys to her pick-up yesterday, phoned ahead to the garden centre to say we were coming, and told us to go and get whatever we wanted – on her account.

It’s also confirmed for us that we don’t want extensive flower gardens ourselves. Lots of stuff in pots, and ground cover plants spilling onto gravelled areas makes much more sense – and much less work!

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One Reason to Rent Before Buying

Sunday, May 24th, 2009

Many people who buy holiday or permanent homes abroad make that first crucial decision – where to buy – during a short holiday trip, or maybe after a couple of visits to the same area. Mostly they don’t spend time there, particularly outside the holiday season.

I’d suggest this is very unwise, and today I’m going to have a bit of a moan to illustrate some of the reasons why.

We’re currently renting an apartment that, in many ways, is ideally situated for the lifestyle we want. We have sea views, can be on the beach in little over 5 minutes, the town in around 10 minutes, and have a bakery about 100m away that’s open almost every day for fresh bread and a mini market about 600m distant.

There’s little more enjoyable than sitting on the terrace with a cool drink, listening to the sound of the sea, or the newly fledged birds chattering as they practice flying and their parents teach them how to find their own food. But it’s not always like that. Sometimes it’s so noisy it beggars belief for this rural area of the Peloponnese.

There are 3 kinds of noise:

Firstly there’s the road. We live on a ‘main’ road., one of just 2 roads into the town so it gets a fair amount of traffic. The busy-ness of the road is relative. 95% of the time it’s a trickle of vehicles which occasionally ramps up into the local equivalent of rush hour (more than 5 vehicles in a single minute). It’s a straight road just where we are, although blessed with patches of the same uneven, poorly repaired surface as many Greek roads. It’s one of the few stretches where you can put your foot down and get some speed up, and many vehicles take advantage of this.

Motorbikes hurtle along, their roar echoing back from each concrete wall they pass. Noisy scooters pass more slowly, 2 abreast, with shouted conversations between the riders. And the mechanic further up the road uses it as his ‘test track’, usually for the noisy old bangers which he drives up and down several times before he’s satisfied.

Secondly there are the neighbours. The next house is about 100m away, but voices carry easily across the space in between, especially the type of voice our neighbour has. It’s a monotonous refrain: ‘Maria’ – or rather, ‘Mareeea’ screeched several times a minute at a pitch that could cut glass. The recipient of this attention is a small child, who seems unable to do anything without being chastised. If she’s out of sight she gets shouted, if she’s in sight and playing she has to be watched constantly it seems. The poor child is likely to grow up hating her name, and probably sufficiently conditioned that she’ll do the same with her own children.

I’m often tempted to throw my head back and shout ‘SHUT UP AND GIVE THE KID AND ME A BREAK!’ just to balance things out a bit.

Give me a break!

Give me a break!

I don’t like air conditioning and would prefer to avoid using it if we can. Which means that as the nights get warmer I’d really like to be able to sleep with the bedroom window open. And it would be possible apart from the third noise-maker: the dogs. Two families live in the building next door to us, and each has a German Shepherd, probably around a year old. In the usual Greek way they are kept outside all day and night.

Barking during the day blends with the other noises around but at night it really comes into its own. There can be nothing for hours, then just around the time we want to go to bed it starts. One dog sets off another, and they in turn set off dogs living further away. Deep barking alsations combine with yapping terriers in a cacophony of sound which never seems to stop. With no other sounds around it’s magnified, and our bedroom window is ideally situated to pick it up. So the window remains closed.

I’m not suggesting that it’s always possible to get 100% of what you want. And living somewhere too quiet isn’t everyone’s ideal. And of course you can’t choose who comes to live next to you. But if you don’t jump into that buying decision too soon you can check out things like traffic volumes and the existence of other things that might not suit you, like noise from businesses or houses around with animals that might be noisy.

And it is worth doing. We met a couple who had an expensive house built in a small village a few km back from the coast. While waiting for it to be completed they stayed in Kalamata, the nearest ‘city’. When they moved into their dream home they quickly found it didn’t suit them. It was too far from the level of social activity they’d decided they wanted and they didn’t like the noise of the cicadas (a constant in summer) or the amount of general wildlife in their idyllic little village. So shortly after moving in, they were looking to sell and move to the big city.

Both these disadvantages would have been easy to learn from a brief rental stay and could have saved a lot of time and money.

And just to show I’m not getting too uptight about all this, I’ve been getting back into using my camera as more than a point-and-shoot box. Here’s a picture of one of those fledgling magpies whose chatter is amusing rather than irritating.

Magpie in flight

Magpie in flight

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Some Thoughts on Animal Welfare

Sunday, April 12th, 2009

The treatment of animals abroad often causes strong emotions in ex-pats.

There is evidence of ill treatment of animals in many countries, including the UK. If there wasn’t we wouldn’t have so many charities dedicated to their well-being. But different countries have different views on the place of animals, and sometimes we impose our own values and assumptions without thinking.

Our first rented apartment was the basement floor of the house of a young couple who had dogs and cats. The cats, they told us, were there to keep the mice away and they were expected to find their own food. And they were good at it as we observed on several occasions. The cats lived outside, sheltering under balconies in bad weather. They received little affection (as we would view it) from their owners, who would never dream of sitting with a purring cat on their lap.

For some time I wondered about the dogs. Two were kept in metal enclosures while the third was neither caged nor restrained, but still kept to a small area. All were regularly fed and watered and had shelter from the sun, but beyond this they seemed to get little attention. To an English person whose experience was of a dog being a non-human extension of the family, this seemed a cruel life.

But then I realised my mistake. These dogs got regular exercise – before I ever got up out of my bed in a morning. Just because I didn’t see it, didn’t mean it wasn’t happening. And as they were taken out into the countryside they probably got more enjoyment from their exercise than being walked on a lead through urban streets.

There are still a few people around here who use donkeys for transport, either of themselves or their goods. Our romanticised English way is to automatically feel sorry for the animal’s plight. But they are well fed, they get regular exercise, the regular company of their owner. If they are left for a long period they will have food, water and shade. How is this more cruel than keeping a horse in a stable and riding it occasionally, when you have the time?

Shouldn’t we be concerned that the man is riding the donkey while his wife has to walk alongside?

Stray animals are a problem in Greece. I believe it is illegal to have them put down, so there is the ongoing problem of unwanted puppies and kittens as well as older animal.  Cats are pretty good at surviving and the strays living round here are definitely not short of food . Dogs are both more needy and more appealing, especially at the helpless puppy stage.

This can create a dilemma for ex-pats. That soft spot for animals means they often start to feed them, or even take them in. But the animal may be sick or injured so next they’re shipped off to the vet, whose bills can amount to hundreds of euros.

Two friends have found themselves in this situation, taking in sick animals and picking up costs and responsibilities that their Greek owners were unable – or unwilling – to meet. It’s not impossible that the animals were actually left to be ‘found’ by these people. They explain their actions: ‘I had to’; ‘I couldn’t leave it lying there’ etc. But actually they’re wrong: they didn’t have to, they could have left the animal.

They chose not to, it was a positive choice they made, it wasn’t out of their control, as their words suggest.

But is it wise?

Both friends have now taken in 2 abandoned dogs. Chances are they’re developing a reputation as people who will do this, and they may find other animals  appearing near their homes similarly in need of care and attention. And what will they do? Keep taking them in, establishing themselves as a local, privately funded dog’s home? Spend more and more of their income to feed and care for the animals? When will they decide enough is enough, and how will they justify this to themselves?

That abandoned puppy make look cute but it could give you a whole stack of problems

That abandoned puppy make look cute but it could give you a whole stack of problems

What happens when these people want, or need, to go away? Who will care for their animals? It’s not difficult to get someone to look after one dog or cat, but when the numbers start to rise help is less likely to be forthcoming. So they either incur the costs of kennels (if they can find them) or find their lives have become restricted by the needs of the animals.

I can’t see that this seemingly caring action is really helping Greece to deal effectively with its problems of unwanted animals. In fact it’s hiding the size of the problem. Taking the less animal-loving path may be hard, but it could be the better option in the long run.

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Spring is Knocking (and Hammering!)

Saturday, March 28th, 2009

I love this time of year in our part of Greece.

Technically it’s spring, but from the nature angle there’s never been a time when there haven’t been abundant flowers, either growing wild in the fields, in gardens, or filling all manner of containers.

This area of Greece is responding to the season in a different way: it’s the ‘waking up’ of human activity that, more than anything, signals that good weather is on its way and summer just around the corner.

Old houses are being re-roofed, new porches constructed, walls built or renovated. Old, seemingly abandoned building projects are suddenly springing to life, boarded up windows and doors removed to reveal fresh activity. All accompanied by sounds of industry: chainsaws, hammers, workmen shouting to one another.

In Koroni the businesses are shaking off the sleepiness of winter hibernation, poking a tentative nose out to sniff the air, to see whether it’s time to brush off the dust and leaves and get ready for action. Every day sees something new happening:

Cafes work hard at refurbishment to make sure they don't miss the tourists

Cafes work hard at refurbishment to make sure they don't miss the tourists

dining chairs lined up to get a fresh coat of Aegean blue paint

tattered awnings repaired or replaced

outdoor seating areas reclaimed from winter service as parking lots

tables and chairs reappearing under awnings abandoned since autumn

fishing boats sparkling in the sunlight under their shiny white paint, contrasted with vivid red and blue highlights

new menus aiming to attract early tourists and re-attract locals also throwing off their winter coverings

even the old wreck of a pick-up truck has been removed from the harbour.

It must be spring!

Today we’re taking part in a world blogging day, linking ex-pats who blog about their experiences in their new country. Martin is a Brit living in Bulgaria, keeping you up to date with what it’s really like to live there. At present he’s getting started growing organic vegetables on his own farm plot, being given helpful guidance in traditional farming methods by local people. We haven’t got that far yet, though we hope to do a small amount of vegetable growing this year. Like Martin we’ll be hoping to learn off the locals, to make sure we get the best out of the land and the climate.

Learn more about the realities of living in Bulgaria on his blog:   http://www.bulgarianslivatree.com/

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Easter Festivities Have Started!

Wednesday, March 11th, 2009

The local Greeks began their countdown to Easter at the beginning of March. Lent is always an important time for celebration.

We’d seen the posters advertising the weekend’s activities.

First up was Saturday evening. The poster offered fireworks, food and wine at the local school starting at 8pm. It had been a pleasant day, no rain, cool but not cold. A good day for fireworks. Off we set at around 7.45 to walk down into town. We arrived at the school to find everything in darkness. No worries, we thought, we’re just a bit early. So we wandered along the seafront, watched the sea for a while then back along the main street to the school.

8.15pm and still nothing happening. The Greeks aren’t noted for their punctuality, but we did expect to see some signs of activity at the school, some preparations under way. But there was nothing.  Everyone was engaged in their usual Saturday evening socialising. No extra crowds around, no children excitedly awaiting the fireworks. We looked at the posters again. We weren’t wrong: they definitely mentioned an event at 8pm Saturday evening in Koroni.

Disappointed, we headed back home, consoled by the knowledge that at least we couldn’t miss the carnival the following day. At the top of the town we could hear music, the heavy beat throbbing – a boy racer with a boot full of expensive audio equipment? Not wanting to risk our eardrums we chose a different route past the primary school. Getting closer we could see people – lots of people. Adults and children all heading towards the school gates.

We followed.

Past the buildings the school yard opened up to reveal a crackling bonfire and children running around chasing one another.  Almost every one of them was in fancy dress. Fairies chased superheroes, cowboys tussled with soldiers. A tiny princess trotted by clutching the hand of a monkey. Many of the adults wore gigantic hats, or face masks – or both!

All ages join in the fun

All ages join in the fun

We joined the crowd, watching first the drumming, then the Greek dancing. Food was simple: plates piled with roast lamb and fresh bread, wine in plastic cups.

Local people, in the local school yard.

Nothing fancy, nothing over-organised.

No health and safety ogres keeping children so far back from the bonfire they wouldn’t feel the heat.

No parents remonstrating their children every few seconds, stopping them enjoying themselves.

No arguments.

No accidents.

No tears.

Just plain, simple, inexpensive fun had by all.

That’s one of the reasons we came to Greece.

P.S. – and no fireworks. I must improve my Greek!

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