Things We Love About Greece #6

July 5th, 2009

Generosity

A couple of recent incidents make me return to this theme, which I’m sure will crop up fairly often, as a demonstration that there are still some places in the world where the old values haven’t completely disappeared.

Often, when we shop in the smaller local shops and markets, we get more than we bargained for – but in the nicest way:

The fruit seller, unable to offer us grapefruit this week, pushes a couple of large oranges into my hands.

The vegetable stall weighs my bag of potatoes, gives me the price, then slips a few more in, and maybe an extra onion.

At the bakers, seasonal treats like soft bread plaits are popped into the bag with our usual loaf.

Restaurants bring free plates of water melon or apple, pieces of honey-soaked cake, or sometimes a small glass of spirits to end your meal.

All these people know that giving a little extra is good for business.

But the one that really made me sit up was recounted by friends. They’d been on a drive out and stopped at the taverna in a small country village. Their meal – salad for two, bread, a jug of wine and several beers – came to an extremely reasonably 9 euros or so. After serving up some fruit the proprietor asked them to close their car windows.

A little curiously, this was done, and the proprietor turned on the hosepipe and washed down their car!

I know I can’t say it would only happen in Greece, but I’m fairly certain it wouldn’t happen in England.

sculpturalplant

Just a nice plant I saw on a recent beach visit

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Even in Paradise We Moan About the Weather!

June 28th, 2009

It’s been a strange week, weather-wise.

By now we would expect to be moaning about the relentless heat (well, you always need something to moan about, don’t you). The decision to avoid using the air conditioning should be under regular review, especially at night, when the heat should be making it all but impossible to sleep.

But as you can guess by my comments, that’s not quite how it is.

As it’s only our second summer living in Greece we don’t really have that much to work on in terms of what to expect. But despite what people say, I’m sure we didn’t get this much daily wind last year. Every day, almost like clockwork, it starts up, especially in the late afternoon. And on several days it’s had a cold edge to it, resulting in arms and legs being covered and windows closed at night, despite the fact that the ambient temperature is now quite high.

The wind doesn’t seem to come from any one direction and swirls around so there’s little chance of sheltering my delicate seedlings from its force. Granted, my washing dries quickly, but that has to be offset against the challenge of unwrapping it from the line, and keeping my ears tuned for sounds that the clothes airer has been blown over by the wind. Then it’s a quick dash downstairs to rescue it before too much dust can blow over those nice clean undies!

The usually empty sky has been crowded with clouds, a welcome respite from the sun when the wind isn’t blowing. And – just to prove that every cloud DOES have a silver lining – we’ve had some decent sunsets, something we don’t get very often. (You pays your money and takes your chance: cloudless blue skies and sunsets don’t mix!)

Here's one of those rare sunsets

Here's one of those rare sunsets

Perhaps the most unexpected event was a thunderstorm a few nights ago. Okay, if I bothered to check the weather maybe it wouldn’t have been such a surprise. But after a relatively warm, cloudless day we were woken in the early hours by the loudest crack of thunder I’ve heard in a long time. The accompanying lightening was impressive, lighting the whole sky and seeming to go on forever.

At first it seemed like the sound and light show had come alone, but after a while the rain caught up. From gentle and refreshing it became louder and heavier, and lasted for quite some time, even though the front of the storm had moved well away. Several inches fell in a short time. Another silver lining – no need to get up early to water the vegetables, but a down-side as well. The weight of wind and water had knocked over the cucumbers – have you any idea how heavy a cucumber plant with a few healthy specimens on it is?

Just going to investigate I picked up several pounds of mud on the bottom of my shoes, plus a collection of dried weeds (naturally the previous day had involved some garden tidying, which was coming back to haunt me).

I think it’s fair to say that, for me, wind is the weather condition I like the least. We’ve covered our vegetable plot with olive netting to give the plants some shade from the afternoon sun. You’d think that netting, being comprised of lots of holes, wouldn’t suffer too much from the wind. Not in our case: I sit watching it being blown this way and that, wondering if the poles are deeply enough buried to stay upright against the pressure. And every so often we have to pop down and check that the sweetcorn, which is growing fast now, isn’t getting damaged.

Wind has a way of making its presence felt everywhere. Sitting outside it swirls my hair in my face and flaps the pages of my book or magazine. That umbrella can shade you from the sun, but the wind might just decide to pick it up and take it away. Inside, anything light is likely to be picked up from where it’s lying and tossed across the floor. A couple of weeks ago the force of wind was so great that a couple of small vases were knocked off a table by a curtain. And if you’re on the beach when it’s windy, you get sandblasted and it sticks to your suntan. Nice!

It’s all experience though, and when we get our own plot sorted we will create wind breaks so we can have better sheltered sitting areas. And we’ll be putting it to good use as well – all that lovely free electricity from our turbine!

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Things we love about Greece #5

June 21st, 2009

Traditional Shopping

If you’re a shop-a-holic or you like browsing around the famous shopping chains Greece definitely isn’t the place for you. The only place you’re likely to find clothing shops you’ve heard of elsewhere are the big cities such as Athens and Thessaloniki, and even then the chances are they will be far smaller outlets than you’re used to.

Even the well branded supermarket chain Carrefour is a shadow of the French outlets. In fact, the only shop that bears a close resemblance to outlets in other countries is the discount supermarket LIDL. But at the other end of the scale Greece really comes into its own.

There are many old-style shops that seem to sell literally everything you could ever need, and many things you never realised you needed, or had lost all hope of ever finding. Plus there are shops that you’ll either love or hate, where you can buy more different types of nails, rope and such like than you can imagine. And they are still sold in the old way: you measure out your rope then pay for it by weight; your accurately cut wood is then totally and charged by volume.

But what we really like is the plethora of traders who bring their goods to the villages.

I can still just about remember mobile grocery vans from my childhood, and and bakers vans were still a common site in England not that long ago, but most of these traders gave up eventually. Here in Greece, loudspeakers announcing the imminent arrival of all manner of traders are a regular, almost daily feature, both in small remote villages and the larger towns. And the range of goods on offer also contains some surprises.

Organic produce straight from local farmers’ fields compete with live poultry (get your baby chicks/turkeys here!) and fish caught that day. Garden plants including tall palms can be seen swaying above trucks as they meander through the narrow lanes. Carpets and rugs peep out from the back of transit vans and even clothes wave precariously on their hangars as a tight corner is negotiated.

Terracotta pots are packed densely and piled high, but our personal favourite has to be the chair man, his announcement always preceding him by several minutes: ‘I have chairs, I have tables, bamboo, wood, plastic … come and look’.

And he does: stacks of white plastic chairs jostle against cast iron and wood garden benches, bamboo chairs and tables balancing precariously in their midst. And all piled in the back of a small pick-up truck. I wonder how often he has to unload the whole thing to get at that particular chair that will go so well on the terrace?

Stop me and buy some: get your garden furniture here!

Stop me and buy some: get your garden furniture here!

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Gardening Update

June 14th, 2009
Almost a foot long in less than a week - and still growing fast!

Almost a foot long in less than a week - and still growing fast!

We seem to have hit the period of endless hot, dry days faster this year than last. One day it was cool, the next it was like a wall of heat, and it hasn’t eased up much since. There does seem to be more wind though, sometimes with a cool edge but at others a hot, dusty breeze that feels like we’re sitting in the path of a hairdryer. A couple of nights ago a strong wind – reminiscent of winter – started in the evening and continued through the night. But with it came lower temperatures and I gladly slept with the windows open. It was beautifully cool, the breeze wafting the bed sheet like fingers gently massaging my back.

My intention had been to get up around 6am the following morning to water the vegetable garden before the heat of the day kicked in (it can be uncomfortably hot by 8am), but as it was still windy I decided to give it a miss. Better to water the ground slowly later, I thought, than get myself thoroughly soaked as the wind whipped the spray everywhere. So at 8am I was out there, working slowly among the plant with the hosepipe, doing my best to water the soil and not the plants themselves.

For some reason I was preoccupied when I finished the task, and I forgot to turn off the water at the main tap. Unfortunately I didn’t discover this until around 12 hours later, as I put my foot down and sank quickly into the muddy ground along the side of the plot. Oops!

Despite these mishaps, our gardening experiment continues with mixed results.

On the positive side every type of vegetable we’ve planted is growing, although we’ve lost a few individual plants here and there. The speed of growth is surprising, and we’re already faced with dilemmas like what to do with 5 large cucumbers, all ready at the same time. But that’s where non-growing friends come in. So far we’ve harvested our own lettuce, French beans, cucumber, courgettes, strawberries and tomatoes.

Courgettes are also coming along well

Courgettes are also coming along well

The heat is taking its toll, and lettuce and carrots are protesting by bolting. A day is a long time in a sunny garden, and we’re learning the hard way about the need for regular feeding, as the water quickly dilutes the impact of the feed. We need to rig up some sort of shade – olive netting over some bamboo poles should do the trick – to try and give the plants some respite in the afternoons, otherwise I think we could lose more to the sapping heat.

The only times of day when manual work is comfortable are early morning (preferred by me) and late evening (preferred by Ken). The ground is so hard – a combination of heavy soil and lack of moisture – it’s difficult to dig down more than a few inches, and gardening tools can easily get damaged. The weeds are, obviously, comfortable in this environment and grow so fast that we need regular weeding sessions among the vegetables to keep ahead of the game.

Container growing seems to be a good idea, giving us more control over watering, feeding and shading options. We already have carrots, strawberries and potatoes in containers, and may have a go with a few lettuce and tomatoes.

Potatoes seem happier in containers where we can almost see them growing

Potatoes seem happier in containers where we can almost see them growing

Although we haven’t had particular pest problems (a few holey leaves is all) we’re also trying some companion planting, putting basil and oregano in amongst the crops. Basil is also finding a use as insect repellent (pots by windows and doors) and to treat insect bites. The oregano was collected from where it grows wild in the hills, in the company of our landlord’s mother. She’s 70, but put me to shame as she climbed up and down the steep slopes like a mountain goat, gathering bags full of herbs, most of which she apparently gives away.

As if caring for our own patch during the few comfortable hours of the day wasn’t enough, I seem to have become unofficial gardener for the rest of the site where we live. We had already offered to water the flower beds each night, which made sense as we were already out there watering our own stuff, and another 15 minutes or so would make no difference.  But then in casual conversation I said I was tempted to weed an enclosed bed where the flowers were fighting for space, and suddenly I was being given requests (I’d like that one moved somewhere else please, and these things in tubs need to go somewhere – put them wherever you want) and presented with new plants to incorporate into the beds!

Actually I don’t mind at all. It’s a good way to get some exercise, which is a rare thing these days, plus it means we get to learn more quickly about which plants will grow best in this climate. Another bonus is the opportunity to take whatever cuttings we want, which means we can start to build up stock for our own garden now, and without the expense of buying plants.

And it’s another example in Greek trust: our landlady gave us the keys to her pick-up yesterday, phoned ahead to the garden centre to say we were coming, and told us to go and get whatever we wanted – on her account.

It’s also confirmed for us that we don’t want extensive flower gardens ourselves. Lots of stuff in pots, and ground cover plants spilling onto gravelled areas makes much more sense – and much less work!

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Holy Ghosts and Bureaucrats

June 7th, 2009

We’ve finally become the owners of a little piece of mainland Greece.

Some day soon this will be the view from our terrace

Some day soon this will be the view from our terrace

It was months ago when we first viewed the plot of land we hoped to buy. Early disappointment ensued when the seller took it off the market for reasons to do with EU grants, retirement and farmers’ entitlements, which we never really got to the bottom of.

So a few months later when it came back on sale we didn’t get our hopes up. We paid our deposit and waited for the bureaucracy to take its course: surveys, checks, legal searches etc., with the knowledge that things could go wrong at any stage, or the seller could pull out again. We greeted progress updates calmly, knowing that in Greece, plans don’t always come to fruition at the time, or in the way, expected.

In early May we were told things should be completed ‘in a couple of weeks’, which we translated to a more realistic time frame of the end of May. At the beginning of June we made a first payment towards land taxes and legal fees, and were told everything should be completed on Friday 4th. Then early on Friday morning we heard there could be a delay until the middle of next week.

Why? Firstly, the European elections being held this weekend meant the Notary might not be available for other duties; and secondly it is Pentecost (Holy Ghost Day) on Monday, thus a public holiday.

So we were pleasantly surprised to find ourselves in the Notary’s office at noon on Friday having documents read out to us by a translator, and signing paper after paper that sealed the deal.

All in all a painless process, and an interesting one.

Land sold in Greece has its value assessed by the relevant government department. Value is based on factors such as whether a site has access to services such as electricity, water and sewage; how close it is to a town or village; and how close it is to the sea,  and doesn’t necessarily bear any relationship to the price being paid for the land.

Our plot lacks water and electricity, is exactly 1km from the village boundary, and several km from the sea, although with excellent views both across to the mountains of the Mani and out into the Aegean. We’re probably no more than 10 minutes from a sandy beach. Takingall these factors into account, the valuation is significantly lower than the price we’re paying.

Our agent has recently sold a piece of land which, because it’s in quite a remote area without electricity, water or decent roads, was very competitively priced. However the valuation department thought otherwise. The plot is close to the sea – not to a beach or an accessible area of coast, but to rugged cliffs. Unfortunately this type of subtlety isn’t taken into account in land valuations: close to the sea means close to the sea, and that is a factor that increases the valuation. In this case, the official valuation is twice what the land cost.

A curious system applies whereby it is up to the buyer to decide what to officially declare as the price they paid for their land. Anything between the official valuation and the actual price paid can be declared. The usual guidance is to declare a price a little above the valuation, but below the actual purchase price. It’s a swings and roundabouts situation: land taxes are calculated based on the declared price, so the lower we go, the less tax we pay. But if there turns out to be a problem with the land, we can only get our money back up to the amount we have declared.

So the choice is between paying more taxes with a guarantee of getting all your money back if things go wrong, and trusting that the lawyers have done their job properly, the seller’s legal declarations (free from mortgage, right to sell etc.) are true, and no-one will come out of the woodwork claiming they actually own the land, not the seller. Happily for us our real estate agent guarantees to refund all our money if anything goes wrong, so we’re able to take advantage of the system to legally save several thousands of euros in taxes.

But those other purchasers are in a less fortunate situation. They have to declare the full purchase price of the land and then have to pay taxes on twice this amount, despite not actually gaining any benefit from their proximity to the sea. If anything goes wrong the whole amount they have paid would be recoverable from the seller, but not those additional taxes. A good reason to buy land just a few km from the sea.

Now we have to make a final decision about exactly what to do next. Watch this space…

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The Swings and Roundabouts of Greek Bureaucracy

May 31st, 2009
Greek bureaucracy is much like swings and roundabouts

Greek bureaucracy is much like swings and roundabouts

Sometimes it seems like Greek systems are designed so they could never be understood by someone who isn’t Greek.

For me this creates a dilemma. I like to be able to sort things for myself: to understand how to do things then get them done without having to rely on someone else to do it for me. I’m not a control freak (although I do have my moments) but I know I’m an intelligent human being who is perfectly capable of dealing with things, and of understanding them. But here we are in Greece  where it’s not always that easy.

Take taxes.

We know we have to make a tax declaration even though we don’t don’t expect to pay any tax yet. We first spoke to a local accountant last spring and explained our situation, conscious of a potential deadline. ‘Come back in January’ he said, which we did, to be told ‘Come back in March’ which left us wondering why we’d been told January. ‘Come back in May’ was the next offering.

Lulled into a feeling that we were going to be sent away on every visit, and knowing we have little, if any tax liability at this stage, we didn’t rush back at the beginning of May but sauntered in mid-month. This time we were told the deadline was the end of May, a fact we would have liked to know earlier, but clearly weren’t to be worried with. It also appeared that we should be sponsored by a Greek person, and that having non-resident status could be better for our tax situation. An interesting point, since we needed a tax number and residence permit to buy a car and to buy land. No-one asked us for a Greek sponsor when we applied for the tax number. And all we had to do to get residence permits was go to the police station and ask…

We were also told that we need to supply information regarding our rental arrangement, depending on how we want to deal with it – we do have a choice, it seems. We can declare that we are renting, in which case we need to show monies paid each month and our landlord’s tax details. Or we can choose not declare, in which case we still need to provide our landlord’s tax number, but in this instance to indicate whose ‘guest’ we are. Seems the tax authorities are happy to accept that people accommodate others for months, even years, without taking any payment for it (and even when they’re not family).

The next step was to discuss this with our landlord. We didn’t mind either way, but there could be a tax liability for her if we declare the rental, so we felt it should be her choice. Her reaction wasn’t the one we expected. Yes, she was happy to give us her tax number but she was more concerned that we were going to someone else to submit our taxes in the first place. ‘Give me your papers’, she said, and I’ll put them through my accountant.

‘But if you do it all for us we won’t understand the process’, I said, ‘and what happens if you’re not around in the future?’ To her credit she fully understands this viewpoint, even though it’s not the one taken by every foreign resident, many of whom are happy to hand everything over and not think about it. She’s agreed to explain the paperwork to us, and said that once we are settled in our own home we can – of course – do this ourselves, although she would still be happy to provide this service, as she does for other people.

Then there’s bank accounts:

When we first arrived we opened an account with one of the local banks, managing to get money transferred and a cash card issued without any help. The latter involved persuading the cashier to get our card sent to the bank for collection since we didn’t have our own individual postbox. But as interest rates in the UK headed towards zero and the exchange rate also headed resolutely in a downwards direction, we decided it was time to minimise our future losses and get our remaining funds over to Greece.

The question to our landlady was simple (so we thought): can you please help us to look at Greek banking websites and work out which is the best option for our savings. The involvement we were seeking was clearly defined: help us understand the system so we can make a decision and act.

The solution was different. Once again we found ourselves caught up, being helped beyond what we had asked for. This time our landlady spoke with a friend of hers who worked in a local bank, and also mentioned our request to her father (in passing we assume though you can never be sure) who told her of offers in other banks. The upshot was that a few days later we found ourselves being introduced to our landlady’s friend and being offered a savings rate that was very competitive.

And even though we were happy to accept the first rate offered she kept nudging it up a little higher until we knew we had an excellent rate. Something we wouldn’t have achieved without our landlady’s help. We would never have known that it is possible to negotiate an individual savings rate, different from the standard advertised one. And even if we did know, we wouldn’t have been able to achieve it without a Greek go-between.

Okay, the final decision to deposit the money was ours, but who’s going to get up and walk away from the best interest rate on offer?

So it really is a swings and roundabouts situation. To find your way around the intricacies and quirks of Greek officialdom is challenging for a non-Greek (and many Greeks as well I’d guess). Going it alone is possible, but sometimes being willing to give up some of that control gets you the better result.

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One Reason to Rent Before Buying

May 24th, 2009

Many people who buy holiday or permanent homes abroad make that first crucial decision – where to buy – during a short holiday trip, or maybe after a couple of visits to the same area. Mostly they don’t spend time there, particularly outside the holiday season.

I’d suggest this is very unwise, and today I’m going to have a bit of a moan to illustrate some of the reasons why.

We’re currently renting an apartment that, in many ways, is ideally situated for the lifestyle we want. We have sea views, can be on the beach in little over 5 minutes, the town in around 10 minutes, and have a bakery about 100m away that’s open almost every day for fresh bread and a mini market about 600m distant.

There’s little more enjoyable than sitting on the terrace with a cool drink, listening to the sound of the sea, or the newly fledged birds chattering as they practice flying and their parents teach them how to find their own food. But it’s not always like that. Sometimes it’s so noisy it beggars belief for this rural area of the Peloponnese.

There are 3 kinds of noise:

Firstly there’s the road. We live on a ‘main’ road., one of just 2 roads into the town so it gets a fair amount of traffic. The busy-ness of the road is relative. 95% of the time it’s a trickle of vehicles which occasionally ramps up into the local equivalent of rush hour (more than 5 vehicles in a single minute). It’s a straight road just where we are, although blessed with patches of the same uneven, poorly repaired surface as many Greek roads. It’s one of the few stretches where you can put your foot down and get some speed up, and many vehicles take advantage of this.

Motorbikes hurtle along, their roar echoing back from each concrete wall they pass. Noisy scooters pass more slowly, 2 abreast, with shouted conversations between the riders. And the mechanic further up the road uses it as his ‘test track’, usually for the noisy old bangers which he drives up and down several times before he’s satisfied.

Secondly there are the neighbours. The next house is about 100m away, but voices carry easily across the space in between, especially the type of voice our neighbour has. It’s a monotonous refrain: ‘Maria’ – or rather, ‘Mareeea’ screeched several times a minute at a pitch that could cut glass. The recipient of this attention is a small child, who seems unable to do anything without being chastised. If she’s out of sight she gets shouted, if she’s in sight and playing she has to be watched constantly it seems. The poor child is likely to grow up hating her name, and probably sufficiently conditioned that she’ll do the same with her own children.

I’m often tempted to throw my head back and shout ‘SHUT UP AND GIVE THE KID AND ME A BREAK!’ just to balance things out a bit.

Give me a break!

Give me a break!

I don’t like air conditioning and would prefer to avoid using it if we can. Which means that as the nights get warmer I’d really like to be able to sleep with the bedroom window open. And it would be possible apart from the third noise-maker: the dogs. Two families live in the building next door to us, and each has a German Shepherd, probably around a year old. In the usual Greek way they are kept outside all day and night.

Barking during the day blends with the other noises around but at night it really comes into its own. There can be nothing for hours, then just around the time we want to go to bed it starts. One dog sets off another, and they in turn set off dogs living further away. Deep barking alsations combine with yapping terriers in a cacophony of sound which never seems to stop. With no other sounds around it’s magnified, and our bedroom window is ideally situated to pick it up. So the window remains closed.

I’m not suggesting that it’s always possible to get 100% of what you want. And living somewhere too quiet isn’t everyone’s ideal. And of course you can’t choose who comes to live next to you. But if you don’t jump into that buying decision too soon you can check out things like traffic volumes and the existence of other things that might not suit you, like noise from businesses or houses around with animals that might be noisy.

And it is worth doing. We met a couple who had an expensive house built in a small village a few km back from the coast. While waiting for it to be completed they stayed in Kalamata, the nearest ‘city’. When they moved into their dream home they quickly found it didn’t suit them. It was too far from the level of social activity they’d decided they wanted and they didn’t like the noise of the cicadas (a constant in summer) or the amount of general wildlife in their idyllic little village. So shortly after moving in, they were looking to sell and move to the big city.

Both these disadvantages would have been easy to learn from a brief rental stay and could have saved a lot of time and money.

And just to show I’m not getting too uptight about all this, I’ve been getting back into using my camera as more than a point-and-shoot box. Here’s a picture of one of those fledgling magpies whose chatter is amusing rather than irritating.

Magpie in flight

Magpie in flight

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The Price of Progress

May 18th, 2009

When you don’t have a job to go to the days can blur into one another. Weekends no longer have the significance they once did. But the downside of that is you don’t always designate ‘me’ or ‘us’ time – well we don’t. We can find ourselves doing something related to our website and blogs every day, and while it’s not as if we spend 8 or 9 hours a day doing this, it can mean that 2 or 3 weeks can easily go by during which we’ve never had a day away from the computers.

Thinking back, it seemed that the last time we had a real day out was my birthday in mid-March, a full 2 months ago. So I declared yesterday was high time for a trip.

After breakfast we set to and made up a simple picnic, packed the car with cameras, maps, fold-up seats and table, and off we went. We had no specific goal in mind, just to drive along the coast from Pylos northwards and stop in places we’d not been to before. A chance to get a bit more familiar with the finger of the Peloponnese where we live.

The day started off warm but without direct sunlight. The sort of day that seems to give a threat of rain, although you know it’s not going to happen. The roads were quiet and we had a good drive over to Pylos, about 40km away. Skirting the town we headed towards the small coastal villages. Possibly the most spectacular beach in the Peloponnese is Voidakilia, just above Pylos. It’s a beautiful crescent of fine sand, almost completely enclosed by hills with a narrow entrance to the cove, which means the sea is beautifully calm. This was as far as we’d been on previous occasions, so we were heading into ‘new’ territory.

Our first stop was Rikia, which proved to be another long crescent-shaped beach, with soft golden sand and deserted apart from one single sun worshipper. This beach is more open than Voidakilia and more rocky. The rocks seem volcanic with weird shapes and deep holes scoured by the sea over millennia. Several different plant species were dotted along the beach and among the hills, giving an unexpected variety of colours and shapes.

The first cove led to another, smaller one with a few boats moored in a natural harbour, where the sandy beach was undisturbed by any human presence. But only the beach …

In the near distance we spotted something very unusual for this area of Greece – a large, partially completed complex of buildings. Normally the houses here are well spaced out and single- or at most double-storey. But this was a complex with buildings 3 or 4 floors high, and crowded together, more like things we’d seen in Spain than anything we’d ever encountered in Greece before. We went closer and soon found the answer:

Some years ago the Greeks decided that it would be beneficial to tourism to construct golf courses, and this area of the Peloponnese was chosen as an ideal site. We knew this was happening, but the most we’d seen before was the reservoir, designed to store our precious water to keep the greens in good shape. Suddenly we were right on the edge of a green with sprinklers working continuously, and the cranes of the building site in the background.  Just shifting our focus by a couple of degrees we could see a long beach adjacent to the complex, with a back-drop of distant hills, blue in the heat haze.

A very large tourist development for the Peloponnese

A very large tourist development for the Peloponnese

We drove around the edge of the site as we made our way further north. The entrance was down a narrow lane off the main road and ‘guarded’ by uniformed security staff, and there was definitely a lot of coming and going, even on a Sunday. We were impressed to find that the complex was  invisible from most points on the coast road.

A couple of kilometres further up the coast we stopped at our second beach – Miti – another long stretch of undisturbed sand. From here we could look back on the golf complex in the distance. Golf in the morning and beach in the afternoon will definitely be on offer. I’d imagine there will eventually be water sports, beach bars, and everything needed to entertain visitors on-site.

I have mixed feelings about this development:

Tourism in this area of Greece is understated. Apart from a couple of resorts listed in travel brochures, most people who come here find it themselves. But the economy is suffering from the falling price of olive oil, a staple crop, so anything that can give it a boost is to be welcomed. And the work on site must be bringing a welcome income to many local people, as could the job opportunities once it is open. But to what extent this new development will be a long-term answer remains to be seen. If the complex is self-sufficient then visitors may not venture too far away from it, and the financial benefits to local residents – as opposed to the owners – may be limited.

And part of the beauty of Greece is the uncrowded beaches, the small unspoilt coves. Some of the nicest beaches are within a few km of this new development. How will an influx of visitors affect them? Or again, will the intention be to provide every possible distraction within the complex itself? It would be a shame if visitors only experienced their immediate environment when this is an area rich with images of traditional Greek life and accessible ancient sites. And it would be a shame if they stayed on their local beach and missed out on visiting the beautiful bays that surround it.

It may be some time before we know the answers and learn how successful this venture has been. In typical Greek style it seems to be taking a long time to complete the work. And first someone has to do something about the local airport at Kalamata. In the past couple of years the number of airlines flying into Kalamata seems to have fallen, and even in high season the traffic through the airport isn’t heavy. But without it potential golfers face a 5 hours journey from Athens, and I can’t see this attracting them to sample the new delights of golfing in Greece.

Visitors will be able to walk off the golf course and straight onto this beach

Visitors will be able to walk off the golf course and straight onto this beach

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Let’s Speak Greek!

May 10th, 2009

Some English speakers believe this one language is sufficient for all their needs, especially since English is so widely spoken. It’s possible to travel to, even live in other countries without learning their language because you can rely on finding English speakers anywhere, is their argument. But the widespread use of English can be a real hindrance if you do want to learn another language.

A few days ago we took our car to the garage for its annual service. I started to explain – in simple Greek (the only kind I know) – that the car was now 1 year old and ready for a service. I wanted to check whether this was just an oil change as suggested in the service booklet. Part way through my dialogue the salesman interrupted me to say ‘I do understand English’.

‘I know’, I replied, but I’m trying to learn Greek’. He kindly let me finish, and we soon had to revert to English anyway because my ability to take a conversation beyond the basics is still ‘in progress’, and my ability to  understand, especially when the Greeks speak at their normal speed, is not that good. You can almost hear the cogs slowly grinding away in my brain, trying to process what I’ve heard into something I can understand before it gets repeated to me in English.

On other occasions my Greek question has been answered in English which can be discouraging. My Greek was understood, but the listener knew Greek wasn’t my first language so moved into his own second language of English, which he expected me to understand. I don’t go around with I AM ENGLISH tattooed on my forehead, so I assume people don’t automatically work out I’m English from the way I attempt to speak Greek, or maybe they do?

But then there are times when my first sentences in Greek are interpreted as my having a good understanding of the language, and the listener continues the conversation in Greek which goes straight over my head, so fast I can feel my hair blowing in the breeze created by the words speeding past. And I stand there looking confused, trying to remember how to say I don’t understand. You just can’t win!

Yesterday I visited my landlady for some Greek help. She had corrected a short email I sent her, and I wanted to understand the errors I’d made. She very patiently talked me through these, showing me where I’d use the wrong tense or article, and where my words were correct but I wasn’t saying something the way Greek people would.

I wanted to repay her help, and suggested that I help her children with their English, by writing them a few questions. I asked to see their school books to find out how far they’ve got and I was surprised. A 10 year old was being taught about different verb tenses in a second language. She wasn’t just being told ‘in English you say X’, her workbook explained that this was the simple past. Or she was being asked to answer questions using superlatives and comparatives. This was how she had learned Greek, her first language, and it was being used naturally to teach her a new language.

I brought some of the books back to show Ken.

‘What’s a superlative?’ I asked him. He just looked at me.

‘How about a preposition of place?’ I continued.

‘A what?’ he replied.

I an so envious! I was never taught English in this way (and nor, it seems, was Ken). When it’s your native language and you’re learning as you develop speech so much of what you learn is unconsciously done. So I know I can use the language correctly, I know that I use the simple past when it should be the simple past, not the continuous. I know I use the infinitive in the right place. I use superlatives and prepositions every day. But I couldn’t explain to anyone that this is what I’m doing because I never learned these things specifically in school.

If you really want to make me squirm all you’ve got to do is start talking about subjunctives or prepositions. What’s worse is that I feel I ought to understand them, but it’s become one of those mental stumbling blocks where the harder I try, the less I succeed.  So as far as English is concerned I’m willing to continue in a state of conscious ignorance, trusting to instinct in my use of the language. But that’s not very helpful for my Greek.

One of my big struggles with Greek is verbs. Remembering how the endings change from one tense to another and which ending you use to incorporate the correct subject (I, me, they etc. aren’t used separately, they’re bundled up in the verb ending) is challenging enough, but then I also need to work out exactly which tense to use as well. And this is something where I have no conscious formal understanding from my own language to help me work it out.

Then there are the articles. When you’ve grown up with ‘the’ and ‘a/an’ being used for everything, the number of articles used, depending on case, gender etc. is daunting. Add to that the ‘helpful’ fact that you can put words in different orders in a Greek sentence and it will still mean the same thing, and it’s a good job we’re here for the rest of our lives as there’s a very long way to go.

It’s not all discouraging though: Greek people are often lavish with their compliments. Our car salesman told me my Greek was better than his English – which it definitely isn’t – but it was nice of him to say it, and my landlady complimented my efforts, especially the 2 sentences where there was no yellow highlighting of errors. And I know I’m not taking the easy route as I’m trying to use those things I have most challenges with, like different verb tenses and possessive cases, so in a way I’m setting myself more of a challenge than I might need to.

Now then, did she hit him or was it the other way round. Where’s that workbook…

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Garden Update

May 4th, 2009

Our gardening endeavours are coming along but they’ve not been totally straightforward.

When we first prepared the plot we decided to put some seeds straight into the ground. The weather was mild so we thought they would stand a chance. Sadly, none of these took. Maybe it was because the soil wasn’t fine enough to allow tiny seeds to survive, or maybe it had something to do with the seeds being past their use-by date (we were given them by a friend). Whatever, after 2 or 3 weeks of watering, we finally decided that the only thing coming up was new weeds – and lots of them!

So we bought some fresh plants. Tomato, pepper and cucumber were the first to go in. About 10 days ago we supplemented these with aubergines and courgettes and all were settled and growing well. But then we got rain – a couple of days of fairly heavy rain with grey skies and a definite drop in temperature.

The surface of the plot had been covered in small lumps of soil. Small but hard, as my knees learned when I decided to weed the plot. The rain changed the surface completely, breaking the lumps down – something that daily watering wasn’t doing. When the sun came out this now-smooth surface set hard, and then began to crack as the upper layer dried out. It looked like a dried river bed that hadn’t seen water for years. Ken had to get back down there and weed again, an urgent job as the rain had really brought the weeds out in force.

Fortunately our fledgling plants survived the deluge without any damage.

French beans sprouted in just a few days

French beans sprouted in just a few days

We also decided to try seeds again, this time new stock bought from the local garden centre. We planted French beans, peas, and broccoli  – but this time in small containers filled with compost. And this is where you really notice the difference in climate here. Keeping the seeds watered and putting them out in the sun during the day but bringing them inside at night, I was amazed when the beans and peas started to sprout within just a couple of days. And once they’d started there was no stopping them. Each day we could see the difference as they grew into strong young plants. Today, only a week or so after they first sprouted, we’ve planted them out, and this time we’re confident they will produce food for us.

There were some vegetables we couldn’t find as seed or small plants, so I asked my sister to send them from England. Two of these, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts, were put into compost  last Wednesday afternoon. Just 3 days later there were already several tiny shoots on the surface. For me it’s amazing that it can happen so quickly. We’re just hoping this quick growth spurt doesn’t mean we get weak, spindly plants.

And we’ve got strawberries. I split a single plant into 5 smaller ones, all of which have survived. Okay, so we’ve only had 4 strawberries ready for eating so far, but there are some more coming, and once the plants throw out runners we’ll be able to add to our stock.

Did I mention we’ve also planted potatoes, lettuce and red onions?

We know our timing may be wrong with some plants but for now we’re experimenting, learning the best way to do things, seeing what will happen as it gets hotter and drier, and how much attention we’ll have to give to our garden. But it’s really great having the time and space to grow our own food. Seeing it all happening is like becoming a child again, fascinated to see life evolving before my eyes.

I’ll probably become a gardening bore, but for now I’m still caught up in the novelty and excitement of it all. I hope it doesn’t wear off too soon.

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